Season's Change
by Ashley Hardaway

I've never been to Jackson's (I can almost hear your audible gasp). I feel foolish at even saying it, a Pensacola food writer who hasn't been to one of Pensacola's greatest restaurants. It's like being a vegan who has never tried tofu; it just isn't done. I excuse myself with the fact that I haven't lived in Pensacola for six years, and before that I was in high school. Jackson's, at that moment in my life, was reserved for special occasions like proms, and people popular enough to have gone to prom.

But since I have moved back, I have noticed that if anything, Jackson's has only increased in popularity. People I generally wouldn't describe as "foodies" are telling me I "simply must" try the scallops there, or the Duck Confit Pot Stickers. Since when did people with ordinary expectations for food rave about duck confit, or even try it? "I think that's the marvelous thing about Jackson's. People come here and try food they wouldn't normally order, because they know we'll do it right," Maria Goldberg, Jackson's Marketing and PR Manager, told our table as we all sat down to try the new fall menu. There I was, surrounded by people proficient in the art of Jackson's. They talked about last year's menu, this spring's menu, how the dcor had changed, which servers they adored. I acted like I was too intrigued by the menu to engage in conversation, and then a funny thing happened, I was.

"Foie Gras." The words lifted off the menu and slapped me in the face. I blinked, and read it again to make sure I was seeing things right: Seared Autumn-Style Foie Gras sweet corn flan, balsamic-roasted butternut squash, roasted red pepper, preserved figs, white balsamic gastrique and toasted pepitas ~ 17

Maria must have sensed my enthusiasm because before I knew it, three small plates of the appetizer were placed on the table. Foie gras, French for "fat liver," is made from the liver of a goose or duck that has been specially fattened. Its flavor is delicate, so don't let the whole "goose liver" thing throw you off. Its taste is very light and buttery and its texture is very creamy. Foie gras can be made into a pate, but in this presentation it was seared, which I prefer. This method of preparation can be difficult, as foie gras has a high fat content and can burn or melt easily if not handled properly. As a result it needs to be seared quickly and at a high temperature in order to achieve the desired consistency and form. The results of Chef Irv Miller's efforts with this dish were amazing. It was decadent. The richness of the foie was offset by the preserved figs, which brought out the slight saltiness in the dish. Toasted pepitas (green pumpkin seeds originally consumed by the Aztecs) brought out a new dimension of texture in the dish. All the ingredients melded together to form a perfect balance of textures, flavors and aromas. I cannot recommend this dish enough.

The night continued and I pitied myself for not having come here sooner. Dishes like Chef's Spice-Seared Local Yellowfin Tuna were raved over, and Harrissa and Honey Glazed Lamb Chops were consumed so quickly that barely anyone spoke as they all noshed away. A silence overtook the dining room. There were aspects of certain dishes that floored me. Candied bacon is a joy. A myocardial infarction-inducing, sugar-wrapped fat delight. Bacon is still enjoying its heyday, even after the devotees of Atkins have moved on. Now it can be found in flavored vodkas, served caramelized and like popcorn in the gastro-pubs of New York, and dipped in chocolate in the finest restaurants of Kyiv. At Jackson's the favored preparation seems to be to half-cooked in the oven, then coated with brown sugar and allowed to cook until done. The finished pieces are cooled and broken into small bits that resemble chopped pecans (this is my guesstimation of how the dish is prepared). The bacon acts as an accoutrement to the fried green tomato appetizer, also served with pickled Vidalia onion relish and butter sauce. The resulting flavors blend and create the most extraordinary pops of flavor. Chef Miller really is talented at blending and harmonizing flavors. It makes his dishes interesting and innovative. Fried green tomatoes are nothing new in the south, and yet, the addition of candied peppered bacon makes it a whole new dish.

"Colors and textures are everything," Chef Miller explains as we ask how he builds his menu. Sometimes a concept of a dish will come to him, sometimes he'll want to play on a certain texture, or incorporate a specific ingredient. There is no science to creating a menu; it rather seems to be an art.

One of the last dishes I tried was the Chipotle-Marinated Duck Breast. Duck when overcooked can taste gamey, and the texture may resemble chewing on a deflated balloon. But once again I wasn't disappointed. The dish itself looked like autumn. Reds, oranges and browns were represented in currants, sweet-potato gratin and crispy duck skin. Brandied blackberry reduction was drizzled over the final presentation before being finished with a sprinkling of duck cracklings. The sweet potatoes were a fabulous accompaniment to the duck, sweet and creamy, and you can't really go wrong with pairing duck and berries. It was the addition of the duck cracklings that really set this dish off. Cracklings are the crisp bits that remain after rendering fat or meat from a goose, pig, or in this case, a duck. Basically, it's like a deep-fried duck skin crouton and it's amazing. The crunch of the cracklings paired with the tenderness of the duck was perfection, and the sweetness of the potatoes was offset by the acidity of the blackberries. This dish is definitely worth coming back for.

And Jackson's has unveiled a whole list of reasons to come back. I plan on making my "hump day" easier by attending "Wine Down Wednesday." Every Wednesday after 5:30 p.m., every bottle on the wine list is half off. For you steak lovers, there's "Prime Time Tuesday," during which Jackson's offers a slow-roasted, herb spiced 16-oz prime rib with seasonal vegetables and a baked potato for $19.95. The third Wednesday of every month, if you can get reservations, is especially fun as Chef Miller leads a cooking demonstration class (with cocktails). It covers everything from preparation to shopping, and guests receive a copy of Miller's recipes. The cost is $40 and past classes have covered topics such as preparing local catch, rubs and marinades, and fall holiday ideas. The season is changing, and so are the menus around town. I encourage you to get out there, experience the new tastes of fall and treat yourself to a night at Jackson's. It may have taken me longer than usual to get there, but man I'm glad I did.

Fried Green Tomatoes
With pickled Vidalia onion relish, butter sauce, and candied pepper bacon ~ 8

Harissa- and Honey-Glazed Lamb Chops
With candied pistachios, golden raisin and Granny Smith apple chutney, goat cheese, whipped potatoes and grilled asparagus ~ 35

Chipotle-Marinated Duck Breast
With brandied blackberry reduction, currants, duck cracklings, buttered spinach and sweet potato gratin ~ 29

Jackson's Steakhouse
400 S. Palafox St. 469-9898 (Reservations recommended)